Tierra Del Fuego – In the Southernmost South
Somehow, it attracts us to ride to the southernmost point of the world that can be reached by motorcycle. Especially because it’s very lonely and beautiful there. So, we take the way across the whole island to Ushuaia, the southernmost city of the Isla Grande De Tierra Del Fuego and all America.
Tierra Del Fuego consists of a Chilean and Argentine part. The Ferry is in Chile, so we have to go to chile first. At the border, everything goes very quickly, because the authorities of both countries share the same building. Overall, we spend almost half an hour stamping our passports and importing the tiger. When we pass the border, a guy from the customs only throws a glimpse into the expansion bags on the motorcycle suitcases. Fruit, vegetables and meat are not allowed to be brought to the other side for hygienic reasons. We can go through and ride to the ferry.
Take us with you, bastards!
As we arrive at the ferry port, it seems like we just missed a ferry because there are only three cars. We stand in line and wait for the next one. After us, dozens of cars and bikers arrive. Many large adventure bikes from Mexico and Brazil. With our heavy packed tiger and a German license plate, we get engaged in conversations quickly and make nice contacts. After a long time, the ferry is finally arriving in the harbor. As soon as we try to get on the ferry, someone from the staff tells us to wait at the side. Motorcyclists embark last. Before we get a chance, the ferry is full of cars. We don’t trust our eyes when it suddenly leaves without us and the bum who sent us to the side is waving a cheeky goodbye (the boys from adv-Motero Magazine took a snapshot of this situation and posted it on Instagram). Incredibly pissed off, we have no choice but to wait for the next ferry. When she comes, we’re out of luck again, only trucks are charged this time. With round about 20 other motorcycles, we ride in the forefront. Once again, we will not be dismissed. We’ve been waiting for an hour and a half when the ferry arrives. A motorcyclist complains to the crew, but we don’t get any excuse. After all, we can go along now and finally come to the other side.
Africancruisers in South America
Our first destination is the tourist information in Cerro Sombrero. The mayor has set up free public bathrooms with warm showers for travellers, and behind the building we can stay overnight, protected from the wind. There we spot a large landcruiser with a Frankfurt number plate. The car belongs to Dela and Marc and we are invited directly to have a beer. The two have already been travelling down from Colombia to the deepest south and also to Antarctica. We are fascinated by their storys and spend a very nice evening together. They call themselves “Africacruiser” because on their first journey with the car, they went from Germany to South Africa.
King penguins are even cooler than their little relatives
Next, we want to visit a colony of king penguins. If you don’t make a trip to Antarctica, you can only see them here in Tierra Del Fuego. We won’t miss it. The entrance is not very cheap, but is does not matter, it’s once in a lifetime. The visit is worth it. The penguins here are much bigger than the little magellanic penguins on Valdes and it’s incredibly fun to watch the funny birds in their hustle. Conveniently, we find a few kilometers further a fantastic, abandoned place to bush camp. The landscape here reminds us a little of Scotland (even if we have never been in Scotland, but it looks a little bit like in Braveheart).
There are two males (in the rear) around the female (front). It was very amusing to watch the males annoying each other.
With the motorcycle at a sawmill
To get to Ushuaia, we have to switch over to the Argentine side of Tierra del Fuego. There are several border crossings. Dela and Marc advised us to take the southernmost border crossing. The gravel road should be beautiful and the border very relaxed. So, we get on our way and they were right. For many kilometers, we ride through a fantastic landscape. Gas stations are scarce, and we have to take every opportunity to fill up the fuel. A small gas station sign leads us directly into the forest. We follow the road, we can’t find a gas station but a small sawmill. There is also a petrol pump on the site. The workers here sell gasoline to travelers who get lost in this remote area. Nobody feels responsible for us. We search on the site, but we don’t find anyone who refills for us (in South America you can’t refuel yourself). It is Siesta, so we wait until a worker comes back from his lunch hour to refill our tank. Until we find someone for paying, we wait only half an hour longer….
Just behind the sawmill is the border checkpoint. But before we cross Argentina, we want to go to the southernmost point of Chile (also a recommendation of Dela and Marc). It is located in a beautiful national park with curvy dirt tracks. And since the road leads to a so-called dead end, there’s not much traffic here. We’re staying at the end of the 90 km long route, right at the Rio Fagnado.
To Ushuaia and to “the end of the world”
The next day, it we finally go to Argentina and the so-called end of the world.
At the border everything really works fast. Over crushed gravel and curvy asphalt we ride to Ushuaia. We are unimpressed by the city, so we just refuel, pose a little in front of the “city gate” and leave quickly. The “real end of the world” is waiting for us. The Ruta Provinicial J is even more southern than Ushuaia. This alone is not our motivation: the road leads through a unique and lonely landscape and the good gravel is great fun with our bike. This tempts us much more than big touristic cities. Before it goes back to the north, we eternalize at the southernmost point of the island.